Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning.
Details
Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue.
What worked
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
Context
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch.
Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
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