Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
Details
Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch.
Lessons
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch.
Going further
Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge.
The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app.
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