Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point.
Trade-offs
Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
What worked
Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
- Book the first night, improvise the rest
- Download offline maps
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
- Leave a free afternoon
Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
Details
The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
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