Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
What didn’t
The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
Details
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue.
- Leave a free afternoon
- Download offline maps
- Carry cash for small towns
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans.
A small example
Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.

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