The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind.
Context
Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning.
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
What worked
Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
- Download offline maps
- Book the first night, improvise the rest
- Leave a free afternoon
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge.
The short version
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind.
Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans.
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