Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
Getting started
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
Going further
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch.
Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
Details
Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.

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