Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
The short version
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge.
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans.
Getting started
Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. We planned two activities a day and happily did one.
- Book the first night, improvise the rest
- Download offline maps
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
- Carry cash for small towns
Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
What didn’t
We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app.
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans.
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans.
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