The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
Getting started
Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point.
The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
Trade-offs
Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
- Download offline maps
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
- Carry cash for small towns
- Leave a free afternoon
Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
Lessons
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue.
The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
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