The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
Getting started
A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge.
What didn’t
Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
- Eat where the menu is short
- Download offline maps
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
- Leave a free afternoon
The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
A small example
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch.
Takeaway
Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind.
Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
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