We planned two activities a day and happily did one. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point.
Trade-offs
Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app.
The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge.
Going further
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning.
- Carry cash for small towns
- Book the first night, improvise the rest
- Leave a free afternoon
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge.
The short version
Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app. We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind.
The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch.
We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
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