Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
A small example
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app.
Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
Details
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
- Download offline maps
- Eat where the menu is short
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
- Leave a free afternoon
Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket.
The short version
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
Takeaway
A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge.
The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue.
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