The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
What didn’t
We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
Getting started
Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Walking between towns showed us what the highway skips. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
- Carry cash for small towns
- Download offline maps
- Book the first night, improvise the rest
- Eat where the menu is short
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable.
The short version
Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind.
We planned two activities a day and happily did one.
The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. Every guidebook mentioned the viewpoint; none mentioned the wind.
Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
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