Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
Getting started
Our favourite meal cost less than the museum ticket. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app.
Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning. We planned two activities a day and happily did one.
Details
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
- Eat where the menu is short
- Walk the city on day one without a plan
- Download offline maps
- Leave a free afternoon
Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning.
Lessons
We planned two activities a day and happily did one. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans. The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty.
A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch. Pack half the clothes and twice the patience.
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