The market opened at six, and by seven the best stalls were empty. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
Getting started
A paper map still beats a phone when the battery dies on a ridge. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning.
Details
We left with a list of places to see next time, which is the point. We planned two activities a day and happily did one. Learning ten words of the language opened more doors than any app.
We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. The quietest neighbourhood had the loudest Sunday lunch.
Trade-offs
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. We arrived after dark, which is the best way to meet a city twice. Locals pointed us to a bakery that had no sign and no queue. Night buses save a hotel night and cost you the next morning.
Pack half the clothes and twice the patience. Off season meant closed cafés but empty trails and honest prices.
The train was slower than the bus and twice as memorable. The weather changed four times before lunch, and so did our plans.
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